Button Etiquette

Whilst we don’t like to make rules there are some aspects of suit buttoning etiquette that will discreetly mark you out as a true gentleman of style.

It's not just fashion; there are some sensible reasons behind a lot of these ‘rules’ including:

• Loosening off your buttons when seated will reduce strain on the cloth and will help avoid unwanted wrinkles
• Many suits, despite having several buttons, are not designed to be fully closed. Three button suits often have a lapel roll that effectively precludes you from using the top button and most suits are cut in such a way that using the bottom button would cause the suit to become ill fitting and restrictive.
• And finally, buttoning your suit correctly sends a discreet message to others in the know that you have an attention to detail.

Here’s the general practice for buttoning your suit: 

Single Button

With one button the normal practice is to button it up when standing, and undo it when seated.

Two Button

With a two-buttoned suit do the top button only, and when seated, undo them both.

Three Button

A three-buttoned suit can seem a little more complicated but there’s an old saying to make it simple: ‘sometimes, always, never’. Buttoning the top button is a matter of how you feel, the second button is always done up and the third, never.

Either button them all or leave the bottom button undone.

When wearing a waistcoat keep the bottom button undone on the waistcoat. If you wear a jacket over the top, generally no jacket buttons are done up, or the rules above are followed.

Shirts should be fully buttoned when wearing a tie. If you’re not wearing a tie undo no more than two buttons to retain a sophisticated look.

Whilst the same rules are typically applied when wearing a sports jacket, it’s generally a more casual environment, so the normal button convention is much more relaxed.

Loosening off your buttons when seated will reduce strain on the cloth and will help avoid unwanted wrinkles. It will also slow down wear of your bespoke suit which we hope will last you for many more years.

Many suits, despite having several buttons, are not designed to be fully closed (see also ‘Waistcoats’ above). Three button suits often have a lapel roll that effectively precludes you from using the top button and most suits are cut in such a way that using the bottom button would cause the suit to become ill fitting and restrictive. The same goes for waistcoats (normally 6 or 7 buttons), where we always leave the bottom undone; it’s often difficult to do up in the first place!

Whilst we’ve detailed some of the rules of buttons above, there is also a lot of flexibility in buttons and their placement when you design your own bespoke suit.

Amongst the myriad of options available from us you can decide on the number of buttons, their placement, the colour and material that they’re made from.

You can also go to town with buttonholes – thread colour and angle are just some of the options that make your custom jacket or shirt completely unique and customised.

Button etiquette is a very minor set of ‘rules’ in the great scheme of things, but we feel it is an important thing to consider for the modern gentleman. If you have invested such time and money in looking good it seems a shame to throw it all away by disrespecting the cut of your garments. Buttoning your suit correctly sends a discreet message to others in the know, while also keeping you looking at your best.

Call or email us to arrange a fitting or to learn more about our bespoke services at our showrooms.

Design your most stylish summer yet.