Ties: how and when to wear them.

When worn correctly, the right tie can bring a suit together and create a pleasing overall impression. Ties will draw the eye to the centre of your figure, focussing interest on your persona and allowing the eye to wander naturally to catch all the small design points and flattering aspects of your outfit. It concentrates your visual impact and immediately makes you look professional and reputable. Having said this, in recent years ties are been misappropriated as stuffy and potentially overbearing, and many situations have trended towards the casual so you might need to consider whether a tie is the right call. Here’s our take on it:

• A business meeting with a superior – unless they explicitly ask you not to, we generally encourage wearing a tie. You can’t lose points for being overdressed to see a superior. You can for being underdressed. So err on the side of caution, show respect, make an effort.
  
• Meetings with someone you consider an equal – find out if they usually wear a tie or not. If they’re a close acquaintance they are unlikely to be concerned with what you wear, but if you have a developing relationship it’s always nice to show a certain solidarity.
  
• Many traditional clubs, and some restaurants, require a tie to be worn as a pre-requisite to entry. Websites are helpful for guidance here.
  
• Social events by invitation - dress code, thankfully, normally specified on invitation, so no guesswork required. If certain codes are mandated, DO NOT ignore them. It is not edgy and/or unique. It is disrespectful and likely to lead to irreparable reputation damage and the end of future invites.
  
• Other very formal events which may typically go without saying- marriages, christenings and other religious rites of passage, funerals. Often a little tact and cultural understanding goes a long way here.
  

Some of the more traditional knots, including the Full Windsor, are too bulky and unless you have the correct physique or collar shape (your tailor can advise!) will not look as effective as hoped for. We recommend sticking to the classic Four in Hand or Half Windsor to fill you collar to the perfect point without too much bulk. Truly jack-of-all-trade knots. Unsure of how to tie a tie? Don’t worry, there are many instructional videos on YouTube and we’ll be releasing our own in the near future!

Unlike a certain American politician, keep the length to just above the waistband. And never tuck your tie into your trousers.

Dimples in tie knots, like cheeks, are generally considered an attractive touch.
Tie bars a matter of personal preference.

Our five essentials for your tie rack;

Wool
A wool tie comes out in winter or overcast Spring/Autumn days to balance the weight of your heavier winter suits. It adds a nice touch of texture. There are some truly wonderful heritage brands/weaves out there. Even better if you are lucky enough to have a family or heritage tartan to which you feel an association. A great talking point.

Solid
A solid colour tie is an essential and extremely versatile part of your wardrobe. A solid black tie will work with formal wear occasions through to a more casual pairing with a leather or denim jacket. Other colour combinations that may work are colours that stand out against each other (eg blue against pale yellow) or different shades of same colour (pale blue shirt, dark blue tie). Matching colour of tie to colour of shirt can be risky as the tie may be less visually arresting, which fails to attract the attention in the way we hope a tie would!

Pin Dot
A finely dotted tie adds a subtle touch and can bring an otherwise dull ensemble to life. Subtlety, like brevity, can be the very soul of wit. Understated elegance is always impressive. Some patterns are also classic, like paisley and bold polka-dots.

Club
Club ties hark back from public schools and sports teams and feature a repeating logo. Wearing such a tie is a statement of membership to a particular set. Useful if you know your superior or those you will be meeting or working with subscribe to same set. It could be as simple as an old school blue for sporting achievement, a regimental tie from previous Armed Forces career, or simply a gesture of solidarity with a certain charity or campaign (Red Cross, Royal British Legion, etc). These ties are often a wonderful talking point but also great interpersonal glue. Use wisely for social progression.

Stripes
British ties slope from left to right and the colours used are often highly symbolic in the same way as club ties. Some may even be club or organisation ties. Americans are typically much more relaxed in their selection of colours and tie stripes will slope right to left.

• Try not to match your tie to your pocket square. It detracts from the tie’s focus.
  
• Do buy silk ties, not cotton. They last longer and feel classier. They also knot better.
  
• Don’t go full novelty. Flowers and stripes are fine but no cartoons.
  
• Do roll ties up to store them, rather than folding.
  
• Do steam a tie to remove creases and avoid ironing.